By: Jennifer Davenport, Esthetics Student
While most people think of acne as an issue for hormonal teenagers,
there are many people in their 20s, 30s and even 40s who suffer from
acne flare ups. In fact, 25 percent of all adult men and 50 percent of
adult women will deal with acne at some point, and a third of them will
experience acne on their body as well as their face.
Many factors can come into play to cause adult acne, including of course
hormones, but also emotional stress, use of cosmetics, medications and
an increase in resistant bacteria. Many adult women also notice
premenstrual or menstrual flare‐ups on the face, often around the
Acne is a disorder of keratinization, or faulty development of the cells
lining the sebaceous gland. The cell walls are sticky, binding together
and plugging the gland rather than easily exfoliating themselves onto
the surface. Meanwhile, the sebaceous glands continue to secrete sebum
(oil), which clogs pores even further. Acne‐causing P. acnes bacteria that
live on the skin thrive and flourish in this environment, causing
irritation in the gland. This persistent plugging, excessive oil build‐up
and irritation cause the gland to rupture, manifesting in inflamed acne
papules or cysts, more commonly known as pimples, or zits.
Interrupting this cycle at various points will help clear acne, but acne
therapy is a long‐term process and can take up to 6‐8 weeks for
considerable improvement to show, so don’t expect a quick fix for more
serious, ongoing acne issues.
A longer‐term strategy should include regimens that focus on killing the
bacteria, reducing unnecessary oils, unplugging the pores and reducing
irritation. Start a regimen that includes multiple products aimed at
those issues, from cleansers to moisturizers and serums and try to
select a line designed for adult skin.
By: April Genshaw, Master Instructor
Some of you may be familiar with or heard of the double cleanse. This isn’t an OCD bathing ritual; it’s an important step in the care and cleansing of your skin, namely your face of course.
The purpose or ideology behind the double cleanse is that you are using an initial cleanse, usually done with an oil based product, to actual break down makeup and debris (visible or not) from the surface of the skin. After the first cleanse is complete you move on to the second cleanse where you are able to massage with the cleanser to remove any impurities from deeper within the pores.
Let’s fine tune the steps and make some suggestions….
Some products here at the Skintourage that we find effective are:
- Circadia: Vitamin Veil
- Wheat germ oil
- Shu Uemura cleansing oils
- Pur minerals : Mineral Melt
- Coconut oil
- DHC: Deep Cleansing Oil
This process is done in the evening to prepare the skin for its detoxing and repairing stages done during sleep. In the morning using only your cleanser will suffice. To begin the double cleanse you will start with dry hands and dry face. Emulsify dime size amount of the oil in your hands and begin to massage onto face. Immediately you will notice all makeup begin to break down. Unless you want to people to think you’ve gone mad by rubbing your makeup all over your face, this should be done in private. Once you feel that all makeup is broken down you then can remove oil and residue with a damp or dry cloth.
- I know most of you are cringing at the thought of oils on your face, especially if you are oily. Rest assured that this will not cause your skin to become more oily, and should assist in the control of breakouts, not cause more.
Now that all makeup is removed you are able to start with the cleanser of choice for your skins needs. Keep in mind that cleansers, much like shampoo are on the skin for a very short uneventful amount of time. To short of a time to remove any impurities the way most people use them. Be sure to use a mild cleanser, if most cleansers do anything its strip any moisture and natural oils from your skin. That equals irritation, dryness and in some cases overproduction of sebum (oils), none of which anyone wants. Choose your cleanser carefully. The tight, dry or itchy feeling after you cleanse is not a good sign.
When properly cleansing the skin you need to apply a small amount of cleanser and emulsify in hands. The face should be slightly damp as well as the hands as you begin to massage and knead the skin. No pulling tugging or stretching, this is slow and gentle. You are kneading the skin to help purge the pores. Don’t forget the neck, and even décolleté. This cleaning process should last anywhere from 1- 3 minutes. Rinse skin with hands or cloth. Follow with toner to remove any remaining residue. Optional to follow with facial scrub as recommended, then be sure to apply all necessary treatments and moisturizers.
This may seem over the top, extreme or time consuming, but trust me your skin will thank you for it. Plus you’ll thank yourself when receive complements on your glowing skin!
By: Lisa Johnson, Esthetics Instructor
Just as the seasons change, so do our trends for makeup. This fall is no exception. From vampy goth looks to natural fresh skin, this fall is all about the artistic side of makeup. Some of the looks are bold but don’t forget that the classic looks are timeless and always in style.
Here are a few of the most popular looks for fall 2012:
Fall faces are in one word “flawless”. Skin should be natural but polished. The look is one of less, but still perfection. It should be slightly contoured, keeping very monochromatic in color. Fresh skin is in!!! (MUA, Amber Bowen)
This fall cheeks are all about a flush of color! Rosy cheeks are back. Just a bit of color on the apples of the cheeks, not the regular contoured blush.
EYE SHADOW –
Eyes are very exciting for the fall. Can we say, Drama Drama Drama? Lots of amazing color! Green, gray, and bright blues are the go to colors. Multi toned with accents of gold make eye shadow a fun way to spice up a look. (MUA, Evony Wells)
If eye color isn’t your cup of tea, you are in luck! Smokey browns are just as in style! Any hue is acceptable from brown to khaki. The key is to make sure that the color is blurred out to give it that smokey appearance. (MUA, Morgan Black)
EYE LINER –
Eyeliner is graphic this fall, bold in shape and in color. Bright blues, greens, and traditional black are the colors seen most on the runway. Liner is angled with sharp lines and big exaggerated curves. It’s all about artistic looks. (MUA, Noelia Boyd, and Morgan Black)
Traditional mascara is always in style. This fall bright blue and green mascara can also be seen to give a pop of color to even a soft makeup look.
Brows are groomed and tamed. Using a pencil and shadow to add color makes any brow stand out. To keep the brows in place it is all about the brow gel. (MUA, Murrell Collins)
Lips are a major focal point this fall. Mulberry, Black Cherry, and Deep Plum are the rage. This vampire inspired look is beautiful, but don’t forget to add blush so you don’t feel and look washed out. It’s a powerful look and should only be worn by the daring. (MUA, Murrell Collins)